Spoke hole drilling: 32 hole
Flange Diameter: 53mm
Center to flange: 27mm
Over Locknut Dimension: 110mm to 130mm 
Here is my favorite coaster brake hub. This hub features a one piece forged steel shell. This hub design was introduced in 1904, and has been in continuous production since then. The original German tooling was transfered to a Czech company that eventually became Velosteel. The factory has obtained official certification for their hub:
The insides of the Velosteel are as good as the shell. One very important feature of a bicycle hub is that it spins freely without drag. You don't want to slow down if you are coasting, and worse, you don't want to have to overcome the drag of brake shoes and retarder springs when you are pedaling. The Velosteel hub design uses several features that minimize drag: 
This hub features a roller drive clutch, the only coaster brake hub to have one. It provides positive engagement, and is very durable. I have found that one drop of Phil Wood tenacious oil on each roller makes them quieter and still lets them engage smoothly.
The retarder spring also incorporates a super low drag roller clutch, again, the only hub available with this feature. When pedaling or coasting, it is disengaged from the shell, allowing the hub to spin with much less drag than all those other low end hubs, whose retarder springs are engaged all the time. The retarder spring is only needed when you are braking, and then you want drag anyway. An elegant solution!
The Velosteel hub uses a strong retractor spring to keep the shoes from dragging on the shell. On the left is the "competition", on the right is the Velosteel brake shoe. Smear a thin coating of Phil Wood green grease on the shoes
With the good quality bearing races ground into the forged one piece shell, the Velosteel hub provides a superior rolling wheel with low rolling resistance. On the left is the Asian hub, on the right is the Velosteel. Note the precision ground races in the Velosteel part. I use the Phil Wood green grease on the bearing races as well. I highly recommend using only very thin bicycle grease for best operation.
Another essential feature of a coaster brake hub is a really good brake of course. The velosteel's massive forged shell can absorb a lot more heat, and the large shoes provide smooth, modulated, and controlled braking.
I have sourced some really nice track nuts from our friends at Porkchop BMX with captured rotating washers to prevent damage to your dropouts, and make the hub very secure in the frame. A pair of these is included with each hub.
A word of caution, you MUST have a front brake in addition to the Velosteel coaster brake hub.
If you would like to save this information to your computer, here it is in PDF form:
When installing your new coaster brake wheel for the first time, you need to adjust the brake arm and strap properly. Make sure the end of the arm where it attaches to the frame is close to centered just below the chainstay. The band should fit tightly around the stay. Use a pair of pliers to carefully form the clamp around the stay. Don't scratch that paint! You don't want the arm to be able to move up or down. This is especially important with this hub, because the brake can activate when rolling the bike backwards, and cause the arm to rotate upwards, causing the hub adjustment to be changed. This can cause the cones to tighten way too tight and damage the bearings. This only happens very rarely, and only if the bike is forced to roll backward with the brake locked. Just pedal the bike in the forward direction briefly if this happens. I have never had a bike do this for me, but I have seen forum posts about it.  
If you need any assistance, feel free to call or write (see contact page)
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